The Ultimate Guide to Badlands and Wind Cave National Parks
These western South Dakota national parks—paired in our guide due to their relative proximity—show how even the harshest environments can be strikingly beautiful.
The shades of twilight in Badlands National Park would test the limits of a Crayola 64-pack—the darkening sky contrasted against multilayered rock formations changing colors in the dying light. On day hikes, you'll find yourself surrounded on multiple sides by gnarled knolls of layers of sand, silt and mud, almost as if you've wrapped yourself inside a colorful tapestry that changes subtly with every step.
Meanwhile, in Wind Cave National Park, more than 300 million years of water advancing and receding created massive subterranean chasms. Rock formations with evocative names—boxwork, calcite rafts, dogtooth spar, frostwork—add glorious texture to the underground maze. Caves can be dark and scary, no matter how many tourists walk through every year, so you may feel a building (thrilling!) trepidation in the back of your mind as you walk deeper into the cavern. You're never in danger, though, since the park offers only guided tours.
You may find your attention divided out here, especially in peak road-trip season. There's just so much to do, whether you want to see bison (Custer State Park), check off an icon (Mount Rushmore) or meet some cold-blooded friends (Reptile Gardens). But give yourself time to savor these underappreciated national parks, where you can't help but marvel at the geologic wonders of our planet.
PLAN Despite being one of the most stunning national parks, Badlands doesn't get anywhere near Yellowstone-level crowds, and shoulder seasons are even better. Wind Cave is a great day-trip destination, surrounded by the rugged Black Hills. Spring, summer and fall tours typically sell out hours before the scheduled start, but you can buy them online beforehand.
PACK During summer, sunscreen and a shady hat are a must for the Badlands, where you won't find many shade trees. Be sure to pack an additional layer for Wind Cave, which remains 54 degrees year-round, as well as long sleeves, pants and sturdy boots if you plan to do the strenuous Wild Cave Tour.
DRIVE Depending on where you are and where you're going in the parks, it can take anywhere from one to two hours to travel between the two parks. Be cautious of routes Google might take you on as they might be gravel roads; sticking to major interstates is always a good bet, albeit a bit longer. If you have all-wheel drive or four-wheel drive, you can explore the northern reaches of Badlands' wilderness area. You should also be wary of GPS at Wind Cave, where many apps will inadvertently misdirect you when traveling to the visitors center. As you enter the park, follow signs for the correct way.
FLY Located conveniently in between the two parks, Rapid City Regional Airport (RAP) is serviced by multiple major airlines, including American, Delta and United.
NATURAL ENTRANCE (WIND CAVE) The 75-minute tour covers less than a mile, but visitors will end up traversing about 300 stairs by the end. Guides point out natural highlights and boxwork formations and discuss the history and significance of the cave to the Lakota people.
WILD CAVE (WIND CAVE) For more serious cavers who are at least 16 years old, this summer-only, four-hour tour requires crawling, climbing and contorting. Participants must dress appropriately and be able to fit through a 10-inch-tall by 3-feet-wide opening.
CASTLE TRAIL (BADLANDS) This 5-mile (one-way) trail winds through prime Badlands scenery to the Fossil Exhibit Trail. Hike it as an out-and-back or connect to other trails for a loop. For an easier walk with similarly spectacular views, check out the 0.75-mile Door, 0.25-mile Window and 1.5-mile Notch trails (all round-trip) from the same trailhead.
SADDLE PASS (BADLANDS) At less than a mile, this hike over the Badlands wall might be short, but it's steep and strenuous. The reward is an awesome view of the surrounding formations. This hike can also connect to the Medicine Root and Castle trails.
BIG BADLANDS OVERLOOK Expansive views of the Badlands.
BIGFOOT PASS OVERLOOK Beautiful views with a troubling history. Chief Spotted Elk (also known as Big Foot) led his band of Miniconjou Lakota and about 200 Hunkpapa Lakota through this area in 1890 after the murder of Sitting Bull. They were later massacred at Wounded Knee.
WHITE RIVER VALLEY OVERLOOK Lovely views of tall formations known as the Castle, as well as the White River Valley.
PANORAMA POINT OVERLOOK A boardwalk leads to a view stretching for miles.
PINNACLES OVERLOOK Located in the North Unit of the park, the views here at sunset are some of the best in the park. It's also great for spotting bighorn sheep.
CHECK IN With abundant water activities and lake views, Sylvan Lake Lodge in Custer State Park is perfect for visitors who want to explore Wind Cave and the Black Hills. Located on the outskirts of Badlands, Cedar Pass Lodge offers multiple cabin options, including several that are wheelchair-accessible. For city slickers, the historic Hotel Alex Johnson is in downtown Rapid City, with modern rooms and a rooftop bar.
CAMP OUT At Wind Cave, Elk Mountain Campground offers more than 60 primitive sites (flush toilets and drinking water are available May through September). If you need hookups, neighboring Custer State Park has excellent facilities, with more than 10 campgrounds, some with electric or full hookups.
About a mile outside Badlands' western entrance, Nomad View can't be beat as a free campsite. Parked along a cliff's edge in the Buffalo Gap National Grassland, boondockers have expansive views of the geological magnificence. Inside the park, Cedar Pass Campground is a reservable, paid campground with nearly 100 sites, including several with electric hookups. Sage Creek is a free, first-come first-served campground with 22 sites, but RVs are prohibited.
CUSTER STATE PARK Bordering Wind Cave, this South Dakota state park rivals many national parks. Drive the 14-mile, impossibly scenic Needles Highway and 18-mile Wildlife Loop through grasslands and forest—but be prepared to brake for bison and burros!
MOUNT RUSHMORE AND CRAZY HORSE MEMORIALS These impressive stone carvings—the Crazy Horse Memorial is still under construction—are more than memorable monoliths. They also now serve as conversation-starters about our changing, more nuanced interpretations of history.
BLACK HILLS NATIONAL FOREST Spanning 1.2 million acres, this scenic national forest offers camping and both motorized and nonmotorized recreation opportunities. You could add days to your trip just to explore this area alone.
GEORGE S. MICKELSON TRAIL The 109-mile, crushed limestone trail slices through the heart of South Dakota from Deadwood to Edgemont, passing over more than 100 converted railroad bridges and through four rock tunnels. Fifteen trailheads allow hikers, bikers and horseback riders to choose their own adventure.
Where To Eat
If you're hungry for more than just great views, Rapid City has the most dining options, but the area offers some off-the-beaten-path gems, too.
Why I Love This Park
When you work at a place for 15 years, it gets into your heart and soul. As a South Dakota boy, wide-open spaces have always appealed to me.
Don't let the name Wind Cave National Park lull you into thinking only of the dark and mysterious catacombs of the cave. A ranger-led cave tour should certainly be part of your visit—the Native American story, limestone dissolving in acidic waters, rare and unusual crystals formed millennia ago now exposed for you to see—but don't overlook the tens of thousands of acres of mixed-grass prairie above ground. You'd be missing out on the antics of prairie dogs as they raise their young each spring, later growing round and fuzzy to remain active through a South Dakota winter. You'll learn that black-footed ferrets prowl after nightfall, looking to prey on sleeping prairie dogs. Bison—survivors of ice ages and near extinction, to later become our national animal—wander freely at the whims of the matriarch cow bison that lead the cow-calf groups. With no bears or wolves, the park may be a bit more friendly to those who wish to hike into the infrequently visited backcountry of the park.
The big rolling grassy landscapes, the dark ridges of pine and starry nights—these are all reasons why Wind Cave National Park remains one of my happy places.
