Active travelers come to Ely bearing canoe paddles and backpacks; others rest easy at plush lodges.

By By the editors of
You can’t have a motor throughout most of Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, along the Minnesota- Canada border, so the best way to get around involves a paddle.

The remote, lake-filled, 1 million-plus acres of the Boundary Waters near Canada lure adventurers who mix days of hiking and canoeing with legendary characters, tiny towns and excellent pie.

Day 1

Several thousand lakes and streams lined by 1,500 miles of forested shoreline create endless canoeing, kayaking and hiking opportunities in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. You have to reserve overnight camping permits, but day passes ease getting on the water for short explorations. Choose from several entry points on lakes around Ely; we especially like Fall Lake.

You can't have a motor throughout most of Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, along the Minnesota- Canada border, so the best way to get around involves a paddle.

Head to Ely Steak House for a bacon-cheese monster called a Bucky Burger paired with one of its 50-plus beers.

The classic Minnesota lakeside experience gets even better at Burntside Lodge, where log cabins, a white-tablecloth restaurant and superb hospitality are the hallmarks of this former hunting camp.

Burntside Lodge

Day 2

Small-town Ely is big on cool places to visit. The International Wolf Center has a Wolves and Humans exhibit, observation windows, and classes and seminars about wolves. (Kids especially enjoy the Junior Wolf Biologist program.)

For more wildlife, take a glimpse into the lives of four bears in their forested 2.5-acre home at the North American Bear Center, where the staff works to conserve bear habitats.

Hungry? What the Chocolate Moose lacks in decor, it makes up for with superb walleye sandwiches and from-scratch pies.

The Brandenburg Gallery shows off Jim Brandenburg's National Geographic photography, and the Dorothy Molter Museum celebrates the last resident of the Boundary Waters; she was famous for the root beer she sold to people.

More information: Ely Chamber of Commerce, (800) 777-7281;

Add a day

Trek 3 hours southwest to Bemidji and snap a shot of folk hero and larger-than-life Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox statues.

perated by the Batchelder family since 1920, Bemidji Woolen Mills sells winter gear in every shade of plaid as well as throws and pillows.

At Lazy Jack's, spicy dishes include the jalapeño-garlic grilled chicken sandwich.

More than 40 sculptures (some for sale) and five murals dot the Bemidji Sculpture Walk.

Near the lake that gave this taproom its name, Bemidji Brewing Company pours high-quality beers, including ales from England and Belgium; order a Sample Paddle to try the entire lineup.

More information: (877) 250-5959;

Day Trip

The Iron Range (60 miles northwest of Duluth) owes its name to its rich iron ore deposits but owes its reputation as a destination to recreation. Montana Cafe in Cook serves buttermilk pancakes and Denver omelets. Mineview in the Sky in Virginia and Minnesota Museum of Mining in Chisholm pay tribute to the industries the region is so proud of. After fishing and swimming at Lake Vermilion State Park, dine on Bamboozler-size pizzas-24 inches!-at the casual Vermilion Club in Tower. (800) 777-8497;

Bring the Kids

Concordia Language Villages For a fraction of the cost of an international vacation, the programs at this Bemidji camp immerse families in the culture of their choice through lessons on heritage, tradition and language. Guests give up cell phones to spend time making Mexican tiles, shaping crusty French loaves that get baked in brick ovens, weaving Finnish textiles and playing Brazilian carnival games. (800) 222-4750;