American history unfolds in all its retro-kitsch glory on this journey that starts in Chicago and runs southwest through the state to St. Louis and on to California. Unplug from the modern everyday on a nostalgic, friendlier-than-a-front-porch journey along the Illinois stretch of Route 66.

By The editors of

At a little park in Joliet, Illinois, you'll find a selection of delights: a roadside path lined with honeysuckle; stands of red birches and white oaks casting shade; the Blues Brothers dancing on the roof of an ice cream parlor …

Well, about that. The park sits along Route 66, aka the Mother Road, born in the 1920s and ever since a neon-lit showcase of unique restaurants, quirky motor inns and kitsch. Like most National Scenic Byways, Route 66 today carries travelers more interested in the going than the getting there. The route symbolically begins at Chicago's Buckingham Fountain and continues for 300 miles southwest through Illinois (or about 435 miles if you take all the original side roads). It crosses the Mississippi River outside St. Louis and heads west to Santa Monica, California. Much of the Illinois section runs a few yards from Interstate-55. But in towns along the way, the road feels more like the two-lane sojourn that lives in memory-American and otherwise.

"We get people from all over the United States and overseas, too-Britain, Australia, New Zealand," Bill Gulas says through the walk-up window of the Blues Brothers-topped ice cream shop Rich and Creamy on Broadway in Joliet. "One guy found a Route 66 sign, and he was having everybody sign it." (Why the dancing Blues Brothers? In the film, Jake served time in the Joliet Correctional Center.)

A big part of the Route 66 fun is the tribe you join en route. Because most people travel at about the same pace, you may run into the same folks over the course of several days-at restaurants, museums and motor inns-and end up swapping tips about must-see statues and diners and sharing stories about your experiences. One stop most drivers buzz about is Pontiac, where vintage-advertising-style murals burst with colorful images of old-time firefighters, trompe l'oeil antique storefronts (including a vintage service station), historical figures, even an irreverent soda-ad homage to Manet.

Illinois' stretch of Route 66 ends where the Chain of Rocks Bridge (with its famous 22-degree bend in the middle) crosses the Mississippi River outside St. Louis. Downriver, the Gateway Arch stands, an iconic monument to America's journey west, marking an iconic route that will still carry you all the way into the past.

Day 1

The journey begins with an early breakfast of salmon Benedict or an apple and cheese omelet at Lou Mitchell's Restaurant and Bakery in downtown Chicago

Stop in at the Joliet Area Historical Museum's Route 66 Welcome Center to plan your trip and get the scoop on the route's Muffler Men. Tours of the refurbished 1926 Rialto Square Theatre (Tuesdays only) reveal its Greek, Roman and Byzantine architecture.

Restored 1930s service stations filled with vintage tools remain at Ambler Becker Texaco Gas Station in Dwight and at Odell's Standard Oil Gas Station.

Odell's Standard Gas Station

Comfort foods like pork chop sandwiches await at the fave Old Log Cabin.

Gas pumps, motel signs, photographs, maps and other items pack Pontiac's Route 66 Association Hall of Fame in an old fire station.

At Livingston County War Museum, stories of wartime and military weaponry pay tribute to soldiers.

Day 2

An often-changing lineup of autos reveals cars like rare Oakland autos and Firebirds at Pontiac-Oakland Museum and Resource Center.

Pontiac's 23 outdoor murals showcase the local cultural scene, and three swinging bridges cross the Vermilion River to connect with parks.

An outdoor mural in Pontiac

Tours of Atlanta's 1904 J.W. Hawes Grain Elevator (open summer Sundays and by request) raise interest in agriculture.

Throwback decor and a menu with classics like fried bologna sandwiches make Atlanta's Palms Grill Cafe feel old-school in the very best way.

Day 3

The Million Dollar Courthouse in Carlinville proves interesting for its architecture and tales of corruption.

Ask to see the scrapbook of Route 66 travelers and sample the fried chicken at The Ariston Cafe, open on Route 66 in Litchfield since 1935. Visit the Litchfield Museum and Route 66 Welcome Center to see Mother Road memorabilia.

Henry's Rabbit Ranch in Staunton features Route 66 mementoes, a "Stonehenge" of VW rabbits and plenty of real bunnies.

In Livingston, a 1940s schoolhouse contains The Pink Elephant Antique Mall, where you'll find vintage clothing and furniture. You can't miss it-just look for the giant pink elephant outside.

Thick pork chops and pie satisfy diners in the relaxed atmosphere of Weezy's Route 66 Bar and Grill in Hamel.

In Collinsville, check out the World's Largest Catsup Bottle.

Photo courtesy of Illinois Office of Tourism

Pedestrians and bicyclists can cross Madison's dogleg Chain of Rocks Bridge into Missouri.

The decor at Springfield's Route 66 Hotel and Conference Center includes gas pumps and motorcycles.