Peach Ice Cream

In a medium heavy saucepan, combine sugar, whipping cream and 1 cup of the half-and-half. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly with a heatproof rubber scraper, until mixture just starts to boil. Remove from heat. Whisk about 1 cup of the hot mixture into beaten egg yolks; return all to saucepan. Cook and stir for 1 to 2 minutes or until mixture coats the back of a clean metal spoon. (Do not boil.) Remove from heat. Allow to cool for 20 minutes.

Strain the custard into a large bowl through a fine-mesh sieve (to catch any bits of egg that might have overcooked in the custard). Stir in the remaining half-and-half, vanilla, salt and, if you like, nutmeg. Cover and chill for 4 to 24 hours. (Mixture will thicken.)

Place half of the peaches in a food processor. Cover and process until smooth and pureed. Stir the peach puree, remaining chopped peaches, chilled peach nectar and, if you like, peach brandy into the chilled custard in the large bowl.

Transfer the mixture to a 4- or 5-quart ice cream freezer. Freeze according to the manufacturer's directions. If you like, ripen* for 4 hours before serving.