Pan-Roasted Cauliflower with Salt Pork and Capers

Heat a heavy, ovenproof 12-inch skillet (cast-iron is ideal) over medium heat and add the salt pork. Cook, stirring, until crisp on the edges, about 7 minutes. Remove the salt pork from the pan, leaving the fat behind.

If the pork drippings do not cover the bottom of the skillet, add enough canola oil to just coat the bottom, and heat it over medium-high heat. Fry the cauliflower in single-layer batches until deeply browned on both sides, about 8 minutes, seasoning each batch with pepper and just a pinch of salt (just a little because of the salt pork and the salty capers).

Return all of the cauliflower to the skillet, add the garlic, and transfer it to the oven. Roast at 375°, uncovered, for 5 minutes or until the cauliflower tests tender when poked with a fork.

Remove the skillet from the oven, and add the butter, sage, and reserved salt pork. Stir until the butter foams and then subsides. Stir in the capers and parsley before serving.