Chocolate Truffles

Chop chocolate*. Set aside. Heat heavy whipping cream in a double boiler or heavy saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until steaming (do not boil). Add chocolate; stir to coat, then remove from heat. Let stand, covered, for 5 minutes.

Stir mixture until combined, scraping sides. (Sometimes the mixture will break and the fat starts to separate, Pete warns. But not to fear: If it looks lumpy or oily, an immersion blender quickly and easily makes it really smooth again. A whisk works, too.) If necessary, briefly return to low heat to melt fully. Add a mix-in**, if desired. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Spread mixture evenly on paper.

Let mixture stand for 2 hours to set, then chill at least 2 more hours in the fridge. Using a 1-inch scoop or 2 teaspoons, divide mixture into 1-inch pieces. Place on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. If necessary, chill 10 to 15 minutes, until just firm. (The mixture shouldn't be rock-hard, but you'll be rolling it with your hands, so you want it firm enough to avoid melting.)

Roll each piece between your palms until round, smooth and a bit tacky, but not gooey. Toss each ball immediately in coating of your choice. (Truffles coated with freeze-dried raspberries taste and look best the first day. Other coatings will hold fine for a few days.) Store truffles at a cool, dry room temp.