Brown Butter Apricot Bars

Place apricots in a small saucepan. Split the vanilla bean the long way. Scrape out the tiny seeds and toss both seeds and split bean into saucepan, along with the water, 1/2 cup sugar, the lemon zest and juice. (If using vanilla bean paste or extract, do not add yet.) Bring to a boil, lower heat, cover and simmer until apricots grow plump and glossy and wallow in the syrup, about 30 minutes. Discard vanilla bean. (If using, add 1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste or extract now.) Mash apricots with a fork or transfer to a food processor and pulse 2 or 3 times.

Set rack in lower third of oven. Preheat oven to 325°. Line an 8-inch square baking pan with parchment paper, leaving some overhang.

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. Cook, stirring occasionally with a silicone spatula, as butter foams, then bubbles. When it¿s riddled with brown specks, 5 to 8 minutes, remove from heat. Add salt, remaining 1/2 cup sugar, the 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla, almond extract and flour, stirring after each. (Mixture will be looser than you might expect, a paste consistency.) Set aside 1/3 cup pastry mixture. Spread or pat the rest into bottom of prepared pan. Spread with mashed apricots. Crumble or dot the reserved pastry over top.

Bake until pastry turns golden, about 45 minutes. Cool on a wire rack; chill until firm. Use parchment paper to lift out of pan. Cut into squares. Bars freeze well.