Brown Butter Apricot Bars

Place apricots in a small saucepan. Split the vanilla bean the long way. Scrape out the tiny seeds and toss both seeds and split bean into saucepan, along with the water, 1/2 cup sugar, the lemon zest and juice. (If using vanilla bean paste or extract, do not add yet.) Bring to a boil, lower heat, cover and simmer until apricots grow plump and glossy and wallow in the syrup, about 30 minutes. Discard vanilla bean. (If using, add 1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste or extract now.) Mash apricots with a fork or transfer to a food processor and pulse 2 or 3 times.

Set rack in lower third of oven. Preheat oven to 325°. Line an 8-inch square baking pan with parchment paper, leaving some overhang.

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. Cook, stirring occasionally with a silicone spatula, as butter foams, then bubbles. When it’s riddled with brown specks, 5 to 8 minutes, remove from heat. Add salt, remaining 1/2 cup sugar, the 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla, almond extract and flour, stirring after each. Set aside 1/3 cup pastry mixture. Pat the rest into bottom of prepared pan. Spread with mashed apricots. Crumble reserved pastry over top.

Bake until pastry turns golden, about 45 minutes. Cool on a wire rack; chill until firm. Use parchment paper to lift out of pan. Cut into squares. Bars freeze well.