Bacon-Wrapped Beef Tenderloin

Heat a heavy 12-inch skillet over high. Rub tenderloin with olive oil and season with kosher salt. Sear all sides of meat, including the ends, until dark chestnut brown, 2 to 3 minutes per side.

Transfer tenderloin to a wire rack set over a sheet tray. Refrigerate 15 minutes.

While meat is cooling, layer two 18-inch-long pieces of plastic wrap on a clean surface. In the center of plastic wrap, arrange bacon slices in a weave, interlacing slices vertically and horizontally to form a 12-inch square, leaving roughly 2 1/2 inches at the ends of each strip unwoven.

Preheat oven to 425°. Brush tenderloin with 1/4 cup Dijon mustard and sprinkle with grated horseradish and the pepper. Place tenderloin across bottom of the bacon weave. Lifting the plastic, roll bacon around beef so it is wrapped tightly and evenly. Remove plastic wrap. If necessary, use wooden toothpicks to hold bacon in place.

In a large deep roasting pan, combine onion, leek, carrot and celery. (Make sure to spread vegetables out so air can flow under the meat to allow bacon to cook.) Place roasting rack in the pan over vegetables. Place tenderloin, seam side down, on the roasting rack.

Roast 35 to 40 minutes for medium-rare (135°) or 45 to 50 minutes for medium (150°). Transfer tenderloin to a cutting board, cover with foil and let rest 15 minutes. Slice into 1 1/2-inch-thick slices.

Meanwhile, prepare sauce: With a slotted spoon, transfer the vegetables from roasting pan to a 12-inch skillet. Stir garlic, thyme, rosemary and bay leaf into vegetables. Add red wine, port, brandy, Worcestershire sauce and crème de cassis (if using). Heat over high. (This may flame briefly, burning off the alcohol.) Simmer until reduced by half, about 8 minutes.

Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard and the cream; simmer until reduced by half, 5 to 8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat. Strain and discard vegetables. Stir butter into sauce until melted. Serve sauce with tenderloin.