Eton Mess

Place berries in a medium bowl. Sprinkle with 2 to 3 tablespoons sugar (use more if berries are slightly underripe, less if they're sweet and juicy), the lemon zest and salt. Gently fold with a silicone spatula. Let stand at room temperature 1 hour, folding occasionally.

Meanwhile, break meringues into irregular pieces. (One method: Set each meringue on the countertop and press firmly with the heel of your hand.) You should have about 2 2/3 cups.

Place cream, 1 tablespoon sugar and the vanilla in a mixing bowl. Beat with a mixer on medium speed until stiff peaks form (tips stand straight).

To assemble: Divide half the broken meringues (and their crumbs) among six dessert bowls or good-size (12-ounce) drinking glasses. Top with half of the berries, then half of the whipped cream. Repeat layers, ending with cream. Chill 30 to 60 minutes before serving.