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The City Grill

203 Jefferson St.
Wausau  Wisconsin  54403
United States
(715) 848-2900
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    - Mary Ellen Gabriel
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    - Mary Ellen Gabriel
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Midwest Living Review

The City Grill offers mouthwatering beef and fish at the Jefferson Street Inn in downtown Wausau.

If you like the feel of a nice new chain hotel, then you'll enjoy the vibe at the City Grill at the Jefferson Street Inn. The entrance is fairly featureless, but inside, the decor is freshly contemporary, with fun lighting, colorful hanging sculptures and tall, curved banquettes. The restaurant is dominated by a large, sleek bar that sets a rowdy tone for an otherwise sleepy establishment (on a Tuesday night at 6, we were the only diners). Given the inebriated bar patrons and the mediocre service, we were pleasantly surprised by the food. A generous pour of Pine & Post Chardonnay (from Washington state) was cold and excellent. Warm rolls with herbed tomato butter arrived swiftly (our waiter was actually attentive and efficient, if a tad unsophisticated). We ordered the mignons of beef tenderloin a la Bourgignonne ($27). The meat was done exactly to our specification (medium-rare) and so velvety-tender we could cut it with a fork. The bed of deliciously buttery, mashed Yukon gold potatoes, topped with lightly charred string beans, was so good, we feared at first the serving was too small! Diners wishing to avoid the bar noise (and there's plenty) could request a table in a large, more secluded back room. However, there is no escaping the classic-rock -- Bob Seger, The Eagles -- on the sound system, which contrasts oddly with the sleek contemporary feel of the decor. Entrees from $16.

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