Michael's Supper Club

Supper clubs are a beloved Wisconsin tradition but are often stereotyped as outdated places to go for brandy Old-Fashioneds, relish trays, steaks and fish fry. Happily, Michael's Supper Club in Wausau successfully modernizes the supper club tradition with innovative, upscale gourmet fare.

One bite of the utterly delicious wilted spinach salad with bacon vinaigrette, walnuts and goat cheese erases any skepticism about Michael's "Fine European and American Cuisine" tagline. Further surprises include lobster-stuffed prawns, baby calves liver, and Pacific sea scallops wrapped in smoked bacon with a lemon caper beurre blanc and saffron lobster risotto ($28.99). The scallops are tender, crisp, juicy and flavorful, and the creamy risotto makes a lovely complement. Appetizers like oysters Rockefeller; baby back riblets; mini crab cakes; and jumbo Gulf shrimp in a spicy crispy batter served with sweet chili sauce, Thai peanut sauce and red cabbage slaw run the risk of filling diners up before the entrees (most around $25) even arrive. Those who do leave room for dessert will enjoy the decadent hazelnut cream cake.

White-painted exposed beams, silk plants, twinkling lights, white tablecloths and black cloth napkins lend a festive feel to the building, which is somewhat strangely laid out. The bar is dark and feels like a 1970s lounge, very supper club-ish indeed.