The Steakhouse and Lodge

Contrasts are striking at this Hayward restaurant. The water goblets sit on tan vinyl tablecloths. The wine list comes in a sheet protector. The building tries very hard to overcome its apparent roots as a cavernous, cut-log-encased pole barn. But there's only so much you can do to add intimacy in a space that makes you think of back-to-back hotel ballrooms. Rough-hewn beams that act as pillars and leafy arbors that divide the dining room are a good start. As is a massive stone fireplace with comfy leather couches at one end. But it's the food that truly makes this restaurant outstanding. A favorite: The Pork Namekagon, tenderloin stuffed with field greens, craisins and bleu cheese, and served with a peach zinfandel sauce ($16.95). The menu also offers a nice variety beyond the pork--steak ($15$28), fish ($13$30), pasta ($14$21), salads ($9$13). Sides, including the mixed green salad and the wild rice, are somewhat forgettable. This establishment is one of the few in this season-driven town that professes to be open seven days a week, year-round. Unless they are closed for a private party; call ahead to confirm. The restaurant's upscale approach doesn't translate to the attached lodge. A classic motel, with room doors opening directly into the massive parking lot, this lodging is pretty straightforward. Cabin-esque split logs cover the walls--inside and out. While the motel's Web site mentions that it's within walking distance of the downtown, we wouldn't characterize the walk as pedestrian friendly. Rooms include a small patio overlooking the highway.