Midwest Living Review
A pair of tree trunks seems to sprout through the floor of Viroqua's Driftless Cafe, a fun reminder that this is a restaurant that strives to coexist with nature. The tables and floors are honey-color wood, and potted plants sit in the front window. But the best evidence that this is eco-friendly territory is the menu, which lists about a dozen local farms that supply ingredients to the kitchen. Working with top-grade local produce means the cafe cooks can let the foods' natural flavors star, without relying on over-seasoning to make up for lackluster ingredients. On the evening we visited, trout with roasted root vegetables tasted like -- well, freshly caught trout and just-harvested root vegetables. Simple, homey and nutritious. A blackboard lists several entrees each night, while the permanent menu's focus is pizza (around $10 for a generous personal pie). Choose between a thin crust or a hefty Sicilian. The Greek we sampled wasn't terribly original (spinach, olives, roasted red peppers, feta cheese, basil and garlic), but it arrived piping-hot and proved deliciously salty, gooey and addictive. Several glass domes on the counter cover brownies, cookies and rustic pies whose fruit fillings, not surprisingly, change with the seasons.