The Cookery

Brunch, lunch and dinner at this Door County restaurant are consistently excellent, so everyone was relieved when The Cookery rebuilt after a devastating 2008 fire. The meals remain top-notch, with an emphasis on fresh, local and sustainable foods. Their signature whitefish chowder ($5) is creamy, fresh and delicious. It's great paired with the Door County cherry and apple salad ($6.25), though some of the fresh flavors were overpowered by too much dressing. A slow-roasted pork sandwich and pesto garlic burger ($9.50 each) also get high marks at lunch. The dinner menu is along the same vein, with lots of freshwater fish dishes and meats prepared in fresh, creative ways. Rather than heavy, rich sauces, meals get their flavors from homemade dry rubs and touches of intense flavor. Broiled whitefish is basted with homemade pesto; pork tenderloin gets a homemade cherry chutney. Entrees run a very reasonable $13-$16. The new building complements the cooking, a bright, crisp, contemporary space. Tables scatter around a large atrium, and a second-story patio offers nice outside dining. The handsome, eco-friendly building accommodates more guests than the former restaurant--a good thing when you're winning over as many fans as The Cookery does.