Midwest Living Review
Attention serious foodies. A different kind of eatery is boosting Columbus, Ohio's burgeoning reputation as a top restaurant town. It's called Till, and although the small, simply furnished bistro is near Ohio State's campus, it's hardly cultivating the college crowd. Nope, with unexpected pairings like a cannellini-portobello mushroom burger and cheese grits ($12), Till appeals to more discerning palates.
Owner and two-time James Beard Best Chef semifinalist Magdiale Wolmark has taken the organic-local ingredients trend to a new level with "dynamic fare" reaped from biodynamic farmers. What's biodynamics? Basically, it's super-organic agriculture that uses environment-friendly methods (manure, for example, instead of chemical fertilizers) to sustain the soil as well as plants and animals. Because menu and bar selections change with whatever organic and biodynamic ingredients are in season, fans of Wolmark's inventive cuisine—his version of the classic English ploughman's lunch features fork-tender pork pie and tomme-style cheese sourced via an Ohio dairy ($16)—always check Till's website to see what's cooking.
The site's language seems highfalutin, but regulars know Wolmark's food is exceptionally down-to-earth. They don't frequent Till for outstanding service or ambience. It's all about experiencing the pure pleasures of the table, whether that means quaffing malt-bodied pale ale ($5) from a Columbus brewery, savoring splendid bean chili topped with vegan cornbread ($7), or delighting in silken house-made gelato ($4).