It’s not uncommon for Clevelanders to debate their favorite Zack Bruell restaurant. Now that the chef’s fifth, Cowell and Hubbard, has opened in the theater district, foodies just might shift their allegiance. The French fare is pretty close to perfect, with earthy yet elegant flavors. If classics like foie gras and frog legs sound a little too French, try the truffled chicken breast ($20) served over rich thyme dumplings. Named for the building’s original tenant, a jewelry store, the restaurant feels like a gem itself. (216) 479-0555; cowellhubbard.com
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