Midwest Living Review
Ask a St. Louis native where the best pizza place in town is, and you'll get 10 answers. A city with a robust Italian neighborhood and immigrant roots results in that. But inevitably, Cicero's pops up on those lists, and now, we understand why. The unfussy neighborhood joint opened in 1977 and serves a great array of sandwiches, burgers, salads and pastas, but we came to try the pizza, and we were not disappointed. We purposely chose two pies that were completely different: a veggie primavera made with a basil pesto sauce on thin crust, topped with mozzarella cheese, provel, artichoke hearts, spinach, diced onions and tomatoes. The bubbly cheese arrived a perfect light golden brown, and the crust wasn't cracker-crunchy, more waferlike in texture.The verdict: Perfection. The second, a specialty pie called the Ragin' Cajun, looked entirely different and frankly, not quite as appealing. The mozzarella remained pure white, almost gooey looking, and the tomatoes and herbs sprinkled on top seemed too little sauce. The cheese blanketed sliced andouille sausage underneath and an Alfredo sauce spiked with Old Bay seasoning. The hand-tossed crust seemed as though it had been pulled from the oven about 3 seconds after the dough was cooked all of the way through, yielding a wonderful pillowlike texture that was unlike any other pizza crust we'd tried. All of those disparate parts worked together to create a surprisingly zingy-creamy flavor explosion we're still craving. The pies run about $10-$12 each for smalls; a tasty $5.99 appetizer of pizza chips gives an Italian spin on nachos by using fried pieces of pizza dough dipped in garlic-spiked marinara. We enjoyed the experience even more because the place was jumpin'. We arrived at about 9 p.m. on a Friday night and had to wait a few minutes for a table, and throughout our meal, we watched a parade of patrons come in -- young, old, families with young kids, college students, professionals unwinding after a long week, all races and ethnicities. You'll not only feel cool hanging out there, you'll come away full and happy.