Midwest Living Review
There isn’t much room to linger in this bakery that serves Minneapolis’ popular Hell’s Kitchen, but grab one of the seven mismatched seats to watch bakers working on huge pans of cinnamon rolls, maple pecan streusel doughnuts or carrot cake scones.
The cheeky humor and innovative creations that made Hell’s Kitchen a diners’ favorite extend to this compact offshoot upstairs from the sprawling restaurant. While Hell’s Kitchen thrives on reds, dark colors and comically creepy chandeliers made from knives, Angel Food Bakery shines with white, silver and crystal chandeliers. Spots of color come from rainbow lineup of sugars and icing for orders such as frosted doughnuts that spell out “Happy Birthday.”
Or stop kidding yourself and go straight to the cupcakes. Many do. It’s hard to ignore their swirls of frosting and intriguing flavors, such as peanut butter and jelly, strawberry lemonade, or the Anti-Depressant, a supposedly mood-lifting chocolate cupcake topped with chocolate whipped cream and filled with caramelized chocolate fudge in the center. The Ode to Canada showcases a maple buttermilk cake with maple buttercream frosting topped with candied spiced pecans and candied bacon. Curry lime coconut artfully blends a kick of spice with citrusy sweetness.
If you’re not adventurous, you can find more predictable flavors such as red velvet and chocolate with frosting swirled like a rose, but most of the fun comes from sampling the tasty whims of creative bakers. One of their brainstorms: piled-together clusters of leftover scraps of croissant and Danish dough baked until sugar caramelizes on top then drenched with cream cheese frosting. Definitely a heavenly idea.