The Hill Seafood and Chop House

The Hill, a traditionally upscale restaurant in Grosse Pointe, Detroit's waterfront suburb, reflects its lakeside heritage in the decor. Located in a stone building with a rounded portico underneath The Hill sign, the restaurant sits in what might be euphemistically called a shopping area -- really four salons, four restaurants, one drug store, three investment companies, and ... wait for it ... the Icelandic Consulate. While nautical elements, like sailing photos, abound, there's a also a nod to Grosse Pointe's venerable, genteel reputation in the abundance of framed silver "family" photos, turn-of-the-century oil portraits and black-and-white drawings. Though the menu is classic steak and fish heavy, we went with the Hill's lean turkey burger ($9), mixed with cheddar cheese and apples. And we're glad we did. It's a grilled wonder of flavor. Maintaining the appearance and texture of a beef burger, the burger delivers like Black Angus and includes three toppings in its price (your choice of a few cheeses, mushrooms and onions). It arrives on a fresh brioche bun, with charcoal stripes, lettuce, tomato and red onion. House-made potato chips and a pickle spear come on the side. Yes, it's turkey, but this is no compromise burger. Rather, it's a destination burger served in an elegant and comfortable setting.