Fall Escape to Mackinac | Midwest Living

Fall Escape to Mackinac

If you've only been to Michigan's Mackinac region during the summer (or never been there at all), you owe yourself a fall trip. You'll find the best seats on ferries, prime lakeside restaurant tables, wonderfully deserted hiking trails and bargain hotel rates.

Learn about native culture

The Museum of Ojibwa Culture in St. Ignace (left) offers a thoughtful look at Ojibwa life, including family networks and seasonal migrations, explaining how the Ojibwa adapted to the seasons -- from "shining leaves month" (September) to "crusty snow month" (February).

Museum of Ojibwa Culture

Do the drives

Thanks to the insulating effects of the Great Lakes, the color show near Mackinac often starts in late September and stretches into late October.

Some of the most beautiful fall color is west of Mackinaw City. The Tunnel of Trees (left) is a popular 20-mile stretch of State-199 from Cross Village to Harbor Springs. Nearby Wilderness State Park, along 26 miles of Lake Michigan shore, has a two-lane road that seems to change its mind as it twists toward the park: one mile, the road winds along shoreline dunes. The next mile, it turns inland through meadows of red poppies, purple asters and yellow goldenrod, making for an idyllic drive.

Tunnel of Trees

Wilderness State Park

Glimpse local history

Perhaps the area's most impressive history lesson awaits in Mackinaw City, where visitors to Colonial Michilimackinac State Park (left) slip through the garrisoned entry and into the 1700s. French, then British, occupied these military barracks on Lake Michigan to protect the riches of the fur trade. In fall, visitors get front-row seats at colonial cooking demonstrations and musket firings—and, ultimately, a better sense of what it was like to live here 300 years ago.

Colonial Michilimackinac

Sample North Woods charm

South of Wilderness State Park along Lake Michigan, Cross Village's Legs Inn has built a reputation for North Woods charm (left). Come for the eccentric folk architecture, but stay for the authentic Polish food, including pierogi (dumplings) and szarlotka (berry crumble cake).

Legs Inn

Walk in the treetops

Visitors ready to get out of the car and strap on a harness head for Historic Mill Creek Discovery Park (3 miles south of Mackinaw City), where a new park with a rock-climbing wall, zip line and canopy bridge (left) awaits against a backdrop of tangled cedar, aspen and pine. Still, the park holds on to its history; a waterwheel churns as it did more than 200 years ago, when a sawmill here supplied lumber to the fur trade.

Historic Mill Creek Discovery Park

Ride a bike

Cycling is the best way to explore auto-free Mackinac Island. Come September, riders can pedal downtown without brushing another tourist's tires and admire the softball-size dahlias and drifts of black-eyed Susans at the Grand Hotel. An 8-mile paved trail circles Mackinac. Inland, 140 miles of carriage roads, bike trails and footpaths knit through a hilly and wooded landscape, past limestone outcrops. Scott's Road and the Tranquil Bluff Trail trace the eastern shore, where red, brown and golden leaves drift down from a canopy of red oak, beech and maple.

Explore a park

Mackinac Island State Park (left) surprises visitors with its faraway-woods feel, despite being a few hundred yards from downtown. More than 80 percent of Mackinac Island is within the state park. Hike, bike or ride a horse through forests, past geological formations and along limestone bluffs.

Mackinac Island State Park

60-Second Video: Mackinac Island

Its peaceful park and long history give Mackinac Island a soul-reviving atmosphere. Immerse yourself in the mood at some of our favorite attractions, including the Grand Hotel, Fort Mackinac and Joann’s Fudge.

See a lighthouse

Century-old lighthouses in the Mackinac region continue to pique visitors' curiosity. One way to enjoy them: Shepler's Lighthouse Cruises, three-hour narrated cruises, offered June to mid-September, that pass at least five lights.

Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse

Shepler's Lighthouse Cruises

Marvel at the bridge

The "Mighty Mac" suspension bridge, an engineering wonder, stretches 5 miles across the Straits of Mackinac. At Bridge View Park in St. Ignace, you can get terrific Mackinac Island bridge views with paths, picnic areas and interpretive center.

St. Ignace Visitors Bureau

Learn about native culture

The Museum of Ojibwa Culture in St. Ignace (left) offers a thoughtful look at Ojibwa life, including family networks and seasonal migrations, explaining how the Ojibwa adapted to the seasons -- from "shining leaves month" (September) to "crusty snow month" (February).

Museum of Ojibwa Culture

Glide on the water

Northeast of the Mackinac bridge, a chain of 36 islands and narrow channels known as Les Cheneaux offers plenty of places for hiking, fishing and exploring. Strip malls and souvenir shops never got a foothold here. Instead, visitors admire wildlife from boats and kayaks.

Woods and Water Ecotours

Go fishing

The fish continue to bite near Hessel Bay Sunset Cabins north of the bridge (left). On warmer fall days, the air is clear, waters are calm, and shorelines glow in a rich patina of copper and gold. Visitors (and local residents) know to enjoy autumn's hues while they can. Come November, a north wind will shake the last color from the maples, and a skin of ice will begin to thick on the Straits.

Hessel Bay Sunset Cabins

Your getaway: Mackinac region

The 5-mile "Mighty Mac" spans the Straits of Mackinac, where lakes Michigan and Huron merge. Islands scatter to the east and west, from small, uninhabited limestone outcrops to well-known Mackinac Island. The Straits also divide Michigan into its disparate halves: the Upper Peninsula, where small waterfront towns give way to wilderness, and the more populated Lower Peninsula, with Mackinaw City at its tip.

Your getaway: Where to start

Mackinac Island: Mackinac Island Tourism Bureau. (906) 847-3783; mackinacisland.org

North of the bridge: St. Ignace Visitors Bureau, (800) 338-6660; stignace.com, and Les Cheneaux Islands Tourist Association. (888) 364-7526; lescheneaux.org

South of the bridge: Mackinaw Area Visitors Bureau. (800) 666-0160; mackinawcity.com

Pictured: Carriage rides are a leisurely way to explore Mackinac Island.

What to do: Mackinac Island

Bike rentals: Available throughout downtown; no reservations necessary.

Passenger ferries: Several travel daily to the island May-October from St. Ignace and Mackinaw City. Among them: Arnold Mackinac Island Ferry (800) 542-8528; arnoldline.com; Shepler's Mackinac Island Ferry (800) 828-6157; sheplersferry.com; and Star Line Mackinac Island Hydro-Jet Ferry. (800) 638-9892; mackinacferry.com

Shepler's Lighthouse Cruises: Three-hour cruises June through mid-September. (231) 436-5023; sheplersferry.com

Mackinac Island Butterfly House: An indoor tropical garden exhibit with hundreds of live butterflies. (906) 847-3972; originalbutterflyhouse.com

Bois Blanc Island: A quiet wooded island in the Straits. bois-blanc.com

Mackinac parks: Mackinac Island State Park, Fort Mackinac (pictured at left), and Old Mackinac Point Lighthouse. (231) 436-4100; mackinacparks.com

What to do: North of the bridge

Bridge View Park: Mackinac Island bridge views (left) with paths, picnic areas and interpretive center, in St. Ignace. stignace.com

Dream Seaker Sport Fishing Charters: Fish Les Cheneaux's and Lake Huron's famed walleye waters. (888) 634-3419; dreamseaker.com

Fort de Buade Museum: An unlikely souvenir-shop facade belies a treasure trove of Native American, colonial French and British artifacts, in St. Ignace. (906) 643-6627; stignace.com

Museum of Ojibwa Culture: A fascinating look at Ojibwa life; open daily Memorial Day weekend until early October, in St. Ignace. (906) 643-9161; museumofojibwaculture.net

Up North Studio: Features local oils, etched glass and antique wooden-boat-themed art, in Hessel. (906) 322-2886; lescheneauxislandsartgallery.com

Woods and Water Ecotours: Two-hour to multiday kayak trips; biking and hiking tours also available. (906) 484-4157; woodswaterecotours.com

What to do: South of the bridge

Colonial Michilimackinac: A reconstructed wood fort in Mackinaw City; open from early May through mid-October. (231) 436-4100; mackinacparks.com

Historic Mill Creek Discovery Park (left): History and outdoor adventure, including a rock-climbing wall, zip line and canopy bridge; open from early May through mid-October. (231) 436-4100; mackinacparks.com

Icebreaker Mackinaw: Tour the Coast Guard's steel-hulled workhorse that kept Great Lakes shipping lanes free of ice from 1944 to 2006. Open seasonally; in Mackinaw City. (231) 436-9825; themackinaw.org

Wilderness State Park: Camping and rustic cabins, plus hiking and scenic drives. (231) 436-5381; michigandnr.com

Your getaway: Where to stay

Mackinac Island
-- Grand Hotel: Relax on the 660-foot front porch of this glorious Victorian era landmark (left). Check for fall specials. (800) 578-0354; grandhotel.com
-- Hotel Iroquois: Lovely century-old hotel, with lush gardens, lakefront dining and ample water views. (906) 847-3321; iroquoishotel.com
-- Insel Haus Bed and Breakfast: A rambling home on Bois Blanc Island with a remote, laid-back setting. (248) 921-2890; inselhausbandb.com
-- Mission Point Resort: Comprehensive resort, with four restaurants, tower museum, spa, fitness center and more. (800) 833-7711; missionpoint.com

North of the bridge
-- Hessel Bay Sunset Cabins: Well-maintained housekeeping cabins on expansive waterfront property in Hessel. (906) 484-3913; hesselbaysunsetcabins.com
-- Spring Lodge: A vintage cabin resort on Snows Channel in Cedarville. (906) 484-2282; springlodge.com

South of the bridge
-- Clarion Hotel Beachfront: With beach and indoor pool. (231) 436-5539; clarionhotel.com
-- Mackinaw City: A wide variety of hotels and motels, with many right on the lakeshore; check rates and availability with the chamber of tourism. (800) 577-3113; mackinaw-city.com

Your getaway: Where to eat

Mackinac Island
-- Yankee Rebel Tavern: Great homemade soups and sandwiches, plus unforgettable slow-cooked pot roast. (906) 847-6249; yankeerebeltavern.com
-- Sea Biscuit Cafe and Grog: Casual pub-style restaurant with hearty options that include whitefish Reubens and Indian corn chowder. (906) 847-3611; seabiscuitcafe.com
-- Mary's Bistro: Spit-fired chicken, roasted over local seasoned hardwoods, is the signature dish; fish of the day also is grilled over wood. (906) 847-9911; mackinacmarysbistro.com

North of the bridge
-- Mackinac Grille: Some of the best fresh fish in the Straits region, including lake perch and whitefish (pictured at left). In St. Ignace. (906) 643-7482

South of the bridge
-- Bluewater Grill and Bar: Features all manner of seafood, including fresh local fish and homemade clam chowder; at the south end of the Mackinaw City strip. (231) 436-7818
-- Audie's Chippewa Room: A locals' favorite for fresh, well-prepared local whitefish, lake perch and steaks in a historic up-north atmosphere. In Mackinaw City. (231) 436-5744; audies.com
-- Legs Inn: Eccentric folk architecture and authentic Polish food, including pierogi (dumplings) and szarlotka (berry crumble cake). In Cross Village. (231) 526-2281; legsinn.com

(A version of this story appeared in Midwest Living® September/October 2009.)

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