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235 Louis Campau NW
Grand Rapids  Michigan  49503
United States
(616) 242-1448
(888) 844-5947
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Midwest Living Review

Maria Duryee
Superlative food reflects the motto of eat local, feel global.

Located off the lobby of the JW Marriott, chefs use seasonal, area products in fusions of Asian, French and American foods. It's a melding of some of the world's best flavors. The Rhodes farms duck confit salad ($10) consists of a base of arugula slightly wilted from the heat of perfectly crispy duck leg. A sprinkle of marcona almonds gave flavorful crunch; a smear of citrus vinaigrette and cherry conserves had just enough fruit tang to balance the rich duck and earthy greens. The Dancing Goat gnudi ($25) -- a gnocchi-like combo of cheeses -- avoided any danger of blandness with a light searing that kept insides creamy and fluffy. Served on a bed of spinach, braised artichokes, basil-ramp pesto, morels and pine nuts, each bite was perfect balance of smooth textures and mellow flavors. Entrees run $24-34, starters $6-12, shared plates $9-12, desserts $7, scoops of gelato or sorbets (honey-lavender, pomegranate-black cherry) $3. To-the-ceiling drapes of wide stripes of browns subtly contrast with the neutral walls and woods of the flooring and seating. You can sit at a table overlooking the bartenders' garden and Grand River or the dimly lit interior room. Or sit at the chef's table, a granite-topped bar lined with 11 padded chairs that looks over the wood-fired oven prep area. There you can watch busy sous chefs plate and fire appetizers, flatbreads and salads. A morning breakfast buffet costs $15 and includes made-to-order omelets, Belgian waffles, quiche, plum and apricot coffee cake and loads of fresh fruit. Adjacent to is the bar Mixology, where bartenders serve drinks they invent using cuttings from their herb garden, which can be seen from the dining room. The Love to Cha-Cha sangria ($10) is a refreshing mix of basil-infused Moscato, Cointreau, orange juice and grapefruit juice.

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