Midwest Living Review
After stints at New York and Nashville restaurants, Topeka homeboy chef Greg Fox returned to open Row House Restaurant in the shadow of the Capitol's dome. He converted the 1876 seven-room row house into a fine-dining restaurant serving seasonal gourmet fare Wednesday through Saturday (reservations recommended). Most vegetables are yard-to-table -- Greg grows them in the Federal-style brick home's garden. He works in the original postage stamp-size kitchen turning out delicate dishes delivered to guests by nimble waitstaff balancing china-laden trays on narrow stairways. To experience the full range of Greg's culinary skill, we recommend the $37 tasting menu featuring the weekly menu's eight appetizer, entree and dessert items. The watermelon gazpacho as well as the roasted mushroom salad provide refreshment on a warm summer day. The marinated beef medallions are tasty tender, and the bacon potato side salad is simply to die for. Light and lovely entrees include a peppy garden couscous (vegetarian option) and the sweet-spicy dry rub salmon atop creamy, old-fashioned cucumbers (grown in Greg's garden). Of desserts, the blueberry sorbet ranked highest, although we didn't leave a crumb of the mint brownie or margarita cheesecake behind. Classic cocktails, beers and a 40-bottle wine list offered ($7 a glass; bottles, $25 to $120).