Midwest Living Review
Reflecting the fact that it's named after the Inca goddess of fertility, you can expect a touch of the exotic at Pachamama's fine-dining restaurant. A curved floor-to-ceiling glass wall separates the sidewalk from patrons seated in the candlelit, white-tablecloth dining room. Chef-owner Ken Baker prepares what he calls "new American market cuisine," blending traditional recipes and international flavors reflecting our country's melded ethnic populace. Dinner is pricey -- seafood, beef, pork and venison entrees start at $25 -- so perhaps experience the sleek setting and artful plates over lunch, or come just for dessert or a drink at the cool bar. Pastry chef Jay Tovar-Ballagh presents eight nightly sweets with wine pairings. The $8 tarte tatin's topping of apple butter was good, but the tarte dough was a bit dry. Split the huge, sweet six-inch tall lemon-raspberry mousse cake ($8) or spoon into a softball-size ice cream scoop, $3. Artisan cheese plates, $5 to $12. A glass wine cellar anchors the corner bar that's bathed in neon cobalt light. The extensive cordial and after-dinner drink menu includes Madeira, Muscat, cognacs and brandies, $6 to $12. The fancy finger work of a flamenco guitarist wearing a fedora and suit lends international flair.