Kentucky Horse Country

Race for Spring: Against a backdrop of lawns already emerald green and dogwoods in full flower, trainers lead sleek thoroughbreds in candy-color silks around the paddock at central Kentucky’s Keeneland Racetrack. From the other side of the rail, spectators attract at least as much attention.

Men wear suits and sports jackets, comfortable in the chill of the April morning, and women show off hats that would be the envy of the ladies of the British royal family, broad-brimmed, flower- and feather-trimmed, in a rainbow of Easter-egg pastels, as well as chic black and white. The spectators watch the horses and each other, calling out greetings and exchanging hugs.

Equal parts sporting event, giant garden party and annual reunion, the first meet of the season is about to begin at this historic racecourse, which is surrounded by bluegrass-blanketed hills west of Lexington. In this gracious old Southern city that calls itself the Horse Capital of the World, it’s fitting that three April weekends of races have become an anticipated rite of spring. "It’s how spring is," says Bill Dahstron, one in a brigade of guest-service volunteers. "You burst out, like the horses."

Opened in 1936 as a model for the sport, the track features limestone buildings and rubber brick-paved paddocks that radiate tradition. But the race-day mood is anything but sedate.

In the grandstand, serious gamblers hunch over the day’s racing form, calculating their picks. But for almost everyone else, the mid-April day is too seductive, and anticipation runs too high to sit down just yet, or maybe at all. Kids with painted faces race to the paddock to admire the horses. Beer flows liberally among the college set, while clusters of retirees look on.

At post time, all eyes turn to the track. "It’s the excitement when the races start, just the thrill of that start," says Eric Kraetle of Fort Wayne, Indiana, explaining why he traveled to see this.

Gentry mixing with the beer-and-chips set at Keeneland mirrors Lexington itself. Downtown, old money mingles with a fresh and funky vibe, thanks to the University of Kentucky’s influence. Near UK, upscale shops rub shoulders with student-friendly dives, and stately facades politely coexist with unexpected embellishments, such as the leopard-print awning on trendy A la Lucie’s restaurant and the paint-splattered exterior of bohemian Third Street Stuff and Coffee.

Genteel shops line Victorian Square, but come happy hour, laid-back spots, including Cheapside and DeSha’s, buzz with live music and spirited crowds. Shops selling those race-day hats attract streams of patrons. It’s acceptable to go bareheaded, but dont tell that to the blue bloods in the boxed seats.

Dressing up for race day is a tradition, says Anne Sawyer, designer/director for Fabulous Hats. "Ladies, of course, always wore hats," she explains. "Now, the hats have gotten even more elaborate, and the women try to outdo each other." It’s just one more spring race in Kentuckys bluegrass country.

Written by Katie Knorovsky Photographs by Bob Stefko

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