Burlington

Burlington swells across the bluffs that rise along Iowa's side of the Mississippi River. History credits German immigrants here with creating the city landmark of Snake Alley, one of the most crooked streets in the world. Constructed in the 19th century, the brick street has the same number of switchbacks as Lombard Street in San Francisco, but in half the space. It twists and steeply rises through a genteel old neighborhood with views of the downtown and riverfront.

Long before pioneers established a settlement here in 1832, the Sauk and Fox tribes chipped flint from the limestone bluffs for their arrowheads. In 1805, Zebulon Pike planted a U.S. flag at the site of present-day Crapo (pronounced CRAY-po) Park during his exploration of the Louisiana Purchase. The Stars and Stripes still fly on that site in the park at the southern edge of town, a great picnic spot at river's edge.

Stop at the Port of Burlington Welcome Center on the riverfront to pick up free brochures that direct you on self-guided walking and driving tours. You'll find historic buildings, graceful churches and grand homes downtown and along the streets of the nearby Heritage Hill neighborhood.

Recent history comes alive at Big Muddy's, a casual restaurant beside the river in a restored Rock Island Lines freight house. A mark on the wall indicates where the Mississippi rose 3 feet inside during the great flood of 1993.

Drive 24 miles north on State-99, the Great River Road, which hugs a wooded ridge above the river bottoms. You pass through the quiet towns of Kingston and Oakville. At the tiny community of Toolesboro, you can visit the Toolesboro Mounds National Historic Landmark, which preserves conical Indian burial mounds dated from 100 B.C. to 200 A.D. Backtrack three miles to Oakville, and turn west on County-H22. West 6 miles, then continue west 22 miles on State-78, through the town of Morning Sun. South one mile on US-218 to Swedesburg.

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