Start at the Visitors Center and ask for a Chocolate Trail Passport. Flash it at the listed trail stops to get free samples and discounts on purchases. Set in a renovated brick factory, Ghyslain Chocolatier sells decadent desserts and exquisitely beautiful hand-painted chocolates. A combination hardware store, cafe and market called Parker's General Store scoops locally made ice cream at the old-fashioned soda fountain. A fixture for more than 100 years, Olympian Candies built its rep on handmade Greek creams and molded holiday chocolates. Warm Glow Candle Company Outlet has 11,000 square feet of candles in a German-style building; your passport scores a sweet-scented votive. In Hagerstown, ask for a buy-one-get-one-free Goof Bag of chocolates at Abbott's Candy Factory. They'll be a sweet nighttime treat at Martha E. Parry Bed and Breakfast, a gracious inn located along the old National Road. From $109.
Another pamphlet in the Visitors Center offers a tour of Richmond's cache of Louis Comfort Tiffany stained glass. Reid Memorial Presbyterian Church houses most of the town's windows, but the Morrisson-Reeves Library has outstanding examples of "folded glass," which simulates light and shadow. For lunch, Galo's Italian Grill serves wood-fired pizzas, fresh- chopped salads and homemade pastas.
(A version of this story appeared in Midwest Living® January/February 2012.)