Midwest Living Review
The latest venture by area breakfast/lunch/brunch maven Martha Hoover, Napolese is just around the corner from the flagship Cafe Patachou location in the old-money Meridian-Kessler neighborhood. The dinner-only place is jumping; parking is a little sparse and guests should expect to wait for a table. Inside, the upscale decor is sophisticated and trendy, and so is the attentive waitstaff. The place could easily be considered romantic, if it weren't so darn loud. The noise is a negative; we practically had to shout across the table to hear each other above the din. Drink options include Italian wines, local and Italian beer, Italian sodas and Lavazza coffees; and the menu details fancy pizzas with all the expected toppings, as well as some creative additions like chevre, fingerling potatoes and smoked salmon. Caf Patachou is famous for its "broken yolk" breakfast sandwiches with eggs, cheese and a variety of add-ons. Martha has carried over this recipe to Napolese by offering broken yolk pizzas margherita-based pies with the addition of whole chicken or quail eggs. All pizzas are big enough to share -- about six light slices worth, thin-crusted and quick-fired in a high temperature wood-burning oven in full view of the dining room. The inventive quinoa salad ($9) was a bit bland, but the built-for-two double chopped salad for $10 is a hearty bowl of greens with slivered cheese, white beans, roasted red peppers, capricola and pepperoni. The buffalo Margherita pizza ($14) also tasted good with bubbly circles of melted mozzarella, sweet roasted grape tomatoes and a scattering of fresh chopped basil. The tasso ham is an especially good topping to add on. For dessert, the affrogato di gelato ($6) pleases with a tall glass of hazelnut gelato served with a little cup of espresso to pour over at the table.