Tre Bicchieri

In Italian, "Tre Bicchieri" means "three glasses," but there's much more on offer here than the generous wine list. Tucked into a narrow but attractively Art Deco-theme storefront downtown, the restaurant serves high-end cuisine in a style that is part small-town homeyness, part surprising sophistication, like architecturally minded Columbus itself. The signature osso bucco ($23.95), a braised veal shank with a very smooth and subtly flavored roasted red pepper polenta, was delicious but nearly rivaled by a walnut-encrusted goat cheese served with tomato and fennel chutney ($8.95). Parties of six or less might consider the traditional chef's table, set back toward the kitchen, but across from the only restroom. Oh, va bene. (That's how it goes.)