Midwest Living Review
Sleek chrome and black wood shine against a backdrop of a Chicago streetscape in this new restaurant-bar in Hotel Palomar on Chicago's North Side. Tables by the windows allow diners to watch traffic and passersby. The food is sophisticated but approachable, with a good variety of small-plate choices (perfect for sampling) and full-size entrees. We started with a crispy pork belly BLT that blasted huge bacon flavor from a small sandwich, plus an asparagus-goat cheese flatbread, crispy-hot from the oven. For drinks, we paged through their extra-large cocktail booklet (they claim to have the largest selection of spirits in the city) until we narrowed it down to the Chuck Yaeger: two kinds of rum, cinnamon bark syrup, chartreuse, lime juice and bitters. It glowed a gorgeous amber color and tasted spicy and mellow. Our entrees were the exceptional: moist smoked cod with pumpernickel croutons and horseradish cream, oven-roasted chicken served on a roasted veggie base. To finish, we tried sugar-dusted hot cinnamon funnel cakes with caramel apple ice cream from executive chef and former pastry chef Heather Terhune. Prices range from $4 for a half-portion of marinated olives to $24 for a full-size portion of pork tenderloin with mashed potatoes. Cocktails are $13 apiece.