Midwest Living Review
We've raised our eyebrows at the Bangers and Lace doughnut since we first heard about it -- a pork breakfast sausage stuffed into a doughnut, with maple glaze and a salted peanut butter mousse ($5). Served only on Saturdays and Sundays during brunch hours (11 a.m. 3 p.m.) at this Wicker Park bar-restaurant, we were so mystified at the combo, we had to try it. Turns out, our first pork and peanut butter doughnut will also be our last. It's not the pork part that got us, so much. We enjoy a good sweet and savory treat, and we're crazy for pigs in a blanket, bacon doughnuts and other protein-filled combinations. But salted peanut butter mousse? It just seemed a bit over the top. And it was. The peanut butter mousse was overkill in a serious way. A little bit sweet, a little bit salty, a little bit of stomach acid, it was not a flavor we'd want to try again. The doughnut, itself, was heavy and shiny with oil, made worse by the fact that it came in a cardboard bowl (like you'd get at a stadium), sitting atop a piece of tissue paper, which showed its grease off with no shame. A solid hipster bar, with an ironic display of a deer head and two options for patio seating, Bangers and Lace serves up a better Gumballhead (or any beer, for that matter) than it does doughnut.