Downtown

Downtown, the city has rediscovered the charms of the Milwaukee River. In the 1830s, when much of what would become Milwaukee was still swampland, the community had its beginnings at the riverbank cabin of fur trader Solomon Juneau. By the Civil War years, the riverfront had become the center of commerce, its wharves crowded with tall-masted schooners carrying enough grain to make the city -- briefly -- the wheat-exporting capital of the world. But following this heyday and for much of the 20th century, the river was a neglected backyard.

Now, the handsome RiverWalk, heralded by fluttering pennants, dotted with whimsical sculptures and abloom with hanging baskets, follows the water's winding curves past cafes, brewpubs and shops. It also cuts through small but scenic Pere Marquette Park, the headquarters for summertime fireworks and free weekly concerts. Overlooks invite river watchers. Ducks share the water with sleek powerboats and slender sculls from the Milwaukee Rowing Club.

Neighborhoods on both sides of the river are worth exploring. West of the river on Old World Third Street, 19th-century storefronts with names like Steinmeyer etched in stone evoke a time when Milwaukee was so steeped in Teutonic culture that it was known as the "German Athens on the Shore of Lake Michigan." Shopkeepers posted reassuring signs reading "English spoken here."

Usinger's began producing bratwurst and braunschweiger here in 1880. Its Third Street store, built in 1906, looks just as it did when German immigrants shopped here nearly a century ago: tile floors, marble counters and a mural featuring industrious sausage-making elves. The spicy summer sausage is a great souvenir.

Across the cobblestone street, chefs from the city's best restaurants find that special zest for their dishes in the Spice House. You can, too. Take home a taste of Milwaukee with a jar of Old World Third Street spice blend. At Mader's down the block, sauerbraten and red cabbage have been on the menu since the restaurant opened in 1902.

Follow Wells Street east from the RiverWalk, and you'll pass two of the city's most acclaimed fine-arts venues: the Milwaukee Repertory Theater, in a reclaimed power plant, and the Pabst Theater, built in 1895 and restored to its Victorian glory. The three stages at "the Rep" feature classics, contemporary drama and cabaret. Performances at the Pabst include jazz greats such as Herbie Hancock and country artist Patty Loveless.

Stay on Wells or jog two blocks south to Wisconsin Avenue, downtown's main street. Continue east to Lake Michigan to visit two Milwaukee superstars, one new, one a veteran. New is the soaring addition to the Milwaukee Art Museum.

Named 2001's best design by Time magazine, the Quadracci Pavilion's winged structure is the first building in the United States designed by famed Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava. Of course, visitors are also awed by the collections, including 22 Georgia O'Keeffe works.

Related Links: