"The Grove," as locals call it, is just that: the largest stand of trees for miles amid the rolling east Kansas prairie known as the Flint Hills. In fall, oaks and maples form a scarlet canopy above this old Santa Fe Trail town (50 miles southwest of Topeka).

A meeting between the Osage and government agents along the Neosho River here in 1825 gave this oasis its name. Water and abundant wood made the settlement a natural stop for travelers on their way west.

The town business district's sturdy brick and stone buildings still cover just three blocks. Hays House, the oldest continuously operating restaurant west of the Mississippi, has been serving panfried chicken, brisket and homemade pies since 1857. Nearby, you'll feel like a visiting cattle baron when you stay at the rambling, two-story Cottage House Hotel, dating to the 1870s.

A shelter east of town protects the stump of the legendary Council Oak. It's one of the 18 historic sites to see, including an 1850 mission. Visitors also can view the Post Office Oak, a cache for mail of travelers on the trail; and the Last Chance Store, once the only supply stop between here and Santa Fe.

On fall evenings, visitors and locals share the new lighted path along the Neosho River. Beneath the stars, it's hard to imagine covered wagons pressing on beyond this pretty trail stop.

Side trip Go south 47 miles on the Flint Hills Scenic Byway (State-177). Stop at the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve and at the town of Cottonwood Falls.

Reviewed April 2004.

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