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Indianapolis: One City, Two Ways

It's been a while since anyone referred to Indy by its old nickname of "Naptown." A decade-long renaissance has brought redevelopment to downtown, inviting parks, new venues for pro sports, top museums, boutique shopping and a growing list of exceptional restaurants. But that new cosmopolitan sheen is still tempered by traditional Hoosier hospitality. Indy appeals to visitors of all tastes and budgets. Our two weekend itineraries show you a great time in Indy, whether you're sticking to a tight budget or enjoying a spree. (All prices are for two people.)

By Christine Speer

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Where to Stay

The recently remodeled Courtyard by Marriott is 10 miles from downtown. You might also try neat, reliable AmeriSuites, seven miles from downtown near the airport.

PRICE TAG Marriott: $198 for two nights. AmeriSuites: $238 for two nights.

Friday Night

At Bazbeaux Pizza, a gourmet pizzeria with a Bohemiancasual vibe, dine on Hawaiian or five-cheese pie and sip a glass of red. Windows overlook the Massachusetts Avenue cultural district, seven blocks of galleries and charming clothing, music and gift shops.

Later, root for the Indians (a Pittsburgh Pirates farm team) at Victory Field, once named the "Best Minor League Ballpark in America" by Sports Illustrated. If you choose, you can spread out on a blanket behind the outfield.

TIP Call 317/269-3542 24 hours in advance to request a scoreboard message for your birthday or anniversary.

PRICE TAG Pizza and wine: $20. Baseball tickets, soda and peanuts: $26.25.

Saturday

The immense Indianapolis Motor Speedway is a sight to behold-and a designated National Historic Landmark. On the way there, stop for a fresh doughnut at another city institution: the weathered but wonderful Long's Bakery. Don't miss the iced jellies.

At the track, visitors ride buses around the famous 2.5- mile oval and learn surprisingly intriguing race history. The Hall of Fame Museum includes the Indy 500's first winner-the 1911 Marmon "wasp"-and one of the world's three 1935 Duesenburg convertibles.

PRICE TAG Doughnuts: $1.60 for four. Track tour and museum admissions: $12.

Indianapolis residents swear by Shapiro's Delicatessen, a century-old, kosher-style deli. Try an intoxicating version of mac and cheese, the tallest Reuben known to man and fat, bright red kosher dogs slathered with mustard.

In the heart of the city, a onetime shipping canal flows through White River State Park, a pedestrian-friendly hybrid of green space and urban culture. The park's three-mile walkway is dotted with war memorials, museums, fountains and canal accessible attractions.

The Indiana State Museum shows IMAX movies and has wildly diverse exhibits that have included the permanent vertebrate paleobiology exhibit and last year's popular Lord of the Rings exhibition. Lovers of both art and history will enjoy the Eiteljorg Museum of American Indians and Western Art, full of striking Western landscapes, portraits and handsome bronze sculptures. Around the corner is the NCAA Hall of Champions, with interactive displays about college sports. You even can shoot hoops in a vintage gym. The River Promenade leads the tree-lined way to both the White River Garden and the Indianapolis Zoo.

PRICE TAG Two Reubens: $9. White River Park: $16 for two admissions to one of the museums. $18 for two IMAX tickets. $27 for two admissions to the zoo and gardens. $6 for two admissions to NCAA Hall of Champions.

For a special dinner, head back to Massachusetts Avenue. Even in this appealing neighborhood, R Bistro stands out with its inventive, ever-changing menu. The chef's seasonal dinner salads complement entrees such as pan-seared duck breast with parsnip puree.

After dinner, browse area shops, which stay open late on weekends. One favorite is Silver in the City, a chic stop for jewelry (mostly silver) and art. Many of the items come from Indiana artisans.

A drink at nearby Rathskeller makes a great nightcap. Indy's oldest restaurant occupies the 19th-century building, which was built by Kurt Vonnegut's grandfather, a prominent Indianapolis architect. There's a full bar, an impressive beer list and a biergarten with live music.

PRICE TAG Dinner: $60. Window shopping: $0. Two drinks: $15.

Sunday

In the heart of the sumptuous historic northside Meridian- Kessler neighborhood hides the smart, snug little Cafe Patachou, one of the city's best spots for breakfast-especially for French toast lovers. The Patachou version is made from a croissant, served with warm maple syrup, nuts and a liberal dusting of powdered sugar.

For more shopping, check out nearby Broad Ripple Village, a youth-centric area with thrift shops a go-go; a gift store with attitude (Turandot Decorative Arts); and a quaint bookstore (Big Hat Books).

The recent remodel of the Indianapolis Museum of Art transformed the already appealing museum into a stunner. New exhibits arrive bimonthly to fill galleries overlooking outdoor sculptures and landscaping. Permanent collections- American, African, South Pacific and contemporary- perennially impress, with more to come in the next year.

PRICE TAG Breakfast: $18. Window shopping: $0. Art museum admissions: $14

Save Total: $440.85

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