Cultures Collide

Two cultures collide in River North, a 10-block area stretching roughly west of Michigan Avenue's "Magnificent Mile" and north of the Chicago River.

More than 60 galleries -- some of them stacked three stories high -- crowd into almost any available space in "SuHu," nicknamed for parallel tree-lined Superior and Huron streets, the heart of the art district on River North's west side. On spring evenings and during major showings, you can rub elbows with bad-boy artist types, coolly chic art dealers and wealthy patrons patrolling the scene along those two boulevards, as well as intersecting Franklin Street.

To the east, especially at Ontario and Ohio streets, the neon signs of some of the city's top entertainment attractions pulse. Chicago outposts for a slew of chain and themed restaurants appeal to vacationing families, as do relaxed alfresco establishments stretching along the walkway beside the Chicago River.

Art enthusiasts seek out River North's galleries, which are earning reputations as leading-edge outlets for painters, sculptors and photographers. Carved from corners of refurbished warehouses and hidden behind buzz-in-only doors, the sometimes-cavernous, sometimes-cramped galleries exhibit works of known masters, as well as creations of visionary newcomers.

Specializing in contemporary art, with a small African collection, Gruen Galleries is one of the oldest in the district (226 West Superior Street, 312/337-6262). The gallery also is known for sculptures in iron forged by owner Erwin Gruen. You usually can find him in his welding apron in the basement studio.

Kass/Meridian Gallery focuses on contemporary prints, paintings and sculptures (325 West Huron Street, 312/266-5999). Recognized for displaying pieces by the most influential American and western European artists, the gallery has featured work by Keith Haring and Andy Warhol. Relatively new, LyonsWier Gallery concentrates on realism, with an eye toward developing local artists (300 West Superior Street, 312/654-0600).

Summer's one of the best times to explore this district. The arts community hosts a six-week celebration (July 12 -- August 24 this year). About 20 of the area's galleries participate, with exhibits and an opening-night event that's a hip gallery crawl. Sponsors also stage activities such as art insight talks, showings, performance art and music. For information and dates, call: Chicago Art Dealers Assoc. (312/649-0065).

Dozens of restaurants also have moved into River North. In a converted 1920s-era art store, Zinfandel combines the best of food and art (59 West Grand Avenue, 312/527-1818). Works of some of the city's finest artists surround diners who savor Chef Susan Goss' all-American menu. Her recipes, such as panroasted mahi-mahi paired with sweet-potato hash browns, and braised pot roast with Pennsylvania Dutch black vinegar sauce, represent a blending of cultures and cuisines. Some are intricate and sophisticated; some are as common as stew.

"One of the coolest things about being in River North is that you have such an interesting mix of people," Susan says. "There are very sophisticated art dealers, who appreciate fragile flavors and subtleties in food. And then, there are tourists who want to taste something besides burgers and fries."

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