Another World

Ancient and modern; friendly and exotic. Greeter Dexter Gu loves the contrasts of Chinatown, an insular 10-block area where around 8,000 people, mostly Chinese, live. It's only three miles south of the Loop, but it seems a world away.

"Although we have strong traditions, we are part of American culture and proud residents of Chicago," Dexter says. Born in China, the 25-year-old South Side construction company owner came to Chicago 13 years ago with his family.

From the red pagoda pavilion at Wentworth Avenue and Cermak Road, we pass beneath an ornate gate into the oldest part of Chinatown. Signs in Chinese advertise the restaurants and shops crowding the street. Plucked chickens dangle in the butcher-shop windows, and eels swim in tanks. Paintings of fierce gods of protection hang behind cash registers, and statues of grinning, pawing cats sit in store windows. "The lucky cat is waving you inside to buy something," Dexter explains.

The newer part of the neighborhood centers on Chinatown Square, a two-story, outdoor mall with shops, businesses and restaurants. Framed by sculptures of the 12 animals in the Chinese zodiac and surrounded by modern apartment buildings, the square is a gathering place and the site of traditional festivals.

Stores stock everything from chopsticks and paper lanterns to antifreeze, soft drinks and diapers. Shopkeepers greet us warmly, most speaking Chinese and some English. We also hear Korean, Vietnamese and other Asian languages. Dexter jumps at the chance to show off Chinatown, but he says you really don't need a guide: "Everyone is welcome."

Noteworthy

For more neighborhood information, contact: Chinatown Chamber of Commerce (312/326-5320; chicagochinatown.org).

Attractions Chinatown Square (312/808-1745). Chinatown Library, a new branch that's a hub for Chinatown's culture (312/747-8013).

Shopping Woks 'N' Things, for woks of all sizes, bamboo steamers, skillets, cutlery, spoons galore and basic serving dishes (312/842-0701).

Good Eating Chiu Quon Bakery for moon cakes and dim sum (312/225-6608). Some of the city's best barbecue at Great Wall Restaurant (312/808-9686). Hing Kee Vietnamese & Chinese Restaurant with a mix of flavors (312/808-9538). Joy Yee's Noodle Shop, Asian dishes and delectable "smoothies" in a cheery setting (312/328-0001). Phoenix, Dexter's favorite place for authentic dim sum (312/328-0848). Won Kow, restaurant and banquet hall serving renowned traditional fare for more than 50 years (312/842-7500). Yin Wall City, dried fish, fruits, spices, balms and more in a health, nutrition and Chinese specialties store (312/225-2888).

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