Chicago: My Kind of Town
Wicker Park/Bucktown
Volunteers give free, personalized tours as part of the Chicago Greeter program sponsored by the Office of Tourism. Since last year's launch, some160 volunteers have shown Chicago to more than 1,000 visitors from 49 states and 36 countries. Come along for insider perspectives on six neighborhoods that bear exploring, then set up a visit of your own.
Hipster's Haven
"Wicker Park feels like I imagine Paris did at the turn of the last century,\" says Jennifer Gordon, as the 'el" makes the 15-minute trip northwest of the Loop. The onetime Polish and German community, where Jennifer's mother grew up, and neighboring Bucktown have evolved into an edgy, upscale enclave. By day, it's a shopper's delight; by night, a clubber's nirvana. "At five a.m., this el stop is pumping with partyers," Jennifer says.
The 31-year-old independent purse designer heads for the three-way intersection of Milwaukee, Damen and North avenues. The triangular Flatiron Building fills one corner like a giant slice of cake decorated with carvings. The landmark houses artists' studios and theater groups, often happy to give visitors a glimpse of works in progress. Nearby, Jennifer points out health-food cafes, galleries and tattoo parlors mingling with music clubs, boutiques and alternative bookstores.
The area's transformation began in the 1970s, when cheap rents attracted starving artists and enterprising restaurateurs. Now, refurbished Victorian mansions line the streets, and sleekly renovated lofts flank the el tracks. Friends gather at funky coffeehouses and party all night at lively dance clubs. Restaurant menus and hours reflect this artsy atmosphere. Trends debut and fade first in cafes that don't open on weekends before noon.
Retailers continue to veer determinedly from the mainstream. You can shop for shoes, clothing and furnishings, from vintage to leading edge. Jennifer says, "When it comes to fashion, if there's a 'Chicago style,' this is where you'll find it."
Noteworthy
For more neighborhood information, contact: Old Wicker Park & Bucktown Chamber of Commerce (773/384-2672; wickerparkbucktown.com).
Shopping Shoes you won't see everywhere at City Soles/Niche (773/489-2001). Tangerine for clothes and accessories (773/772-0505). Pagoda Red (773/235-1188) and Asian Essence (773/782-9500) with all sorts of furnishings from the Far East. Climate (773/862-7075) and Embelezar (773/645-9705) for an eclectic mix of home accessories. Yardifacts, blooming with antique and new garden embellishments (773/342-9273).
Dining Silver Cloud with comfort food and red-leather banquettes built for lingering (773/489-6212). In a Russian bathhouse converted into a Zen garden, Spring for artfully prepared seafood (773/395-7100). Flash Taco, pumping out good guacamole and beans into the wee hours (773/772-1997). Classically Bohemian coffeehouses: Earwax (773/772-4019) and Borderline (773/278-5138).
Clubs Double Door on Milwaukee Avenue, a rocker's place of worship ever since the Rolling Stones played a surprise show there in 1998 (773/489-3160). For howling all night long, Red Dog (773/278-1009).
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