A party spot at night, River Street mellows by day. Try beignets (sweet pillows of fried dough) at Huey's on the River (912) 234-7385. Candy stores bookend the street; River Street Sweets sells the better pralines. (800) 793-3876; riverstreetsweets.com
Old Town Trolley Tours have a stop here. (912) 233-0083; trolleytours.com Hop on and head to Broughton Street, where Paris Market artfully displays antiques and gifts. (912) 232-1500; theparismarket.com The Savannah Bee Company has a honey bar. (912) 234-0688; savannahbee.com
At Papillote, sandwiches double as works of art. (912) 232-1881; papillote-savannah.com
First African Baptist Church hides near Broughton. (912) 233-6597; firstafricanbc.com
Chef Joe Randall's Cooking School feels like dinner with friends. (912) 303-0409; chefjoerandall.com
Visitors don't need cars in Savannah, but it's worth renting one to see Fort Pulaski, a fascinating Civil War site with top-notch tours. (912) 786-5787; nps.gov/fopu
Nearby, Tybee Island beaches offer good birding (and a chance for Midwesterners to breathe that fresh sea air!).
Back in town, share family-style tables with strangers at Mrs. Wilke's Dining Room. (912) 232-5997; mrswilkes.com Or enjoy a multicourse afternoon tea at trendy Gryphon Tea Room. (912) 525-5880.
Nearby, the guides at the Juliette Gordon Low Birthplace tell fun stories about Low's childhood and her experience founding the Girl Scouts. (912) 233-4501; juliettegordonlowbirthplace.org
The gleaming Jepson Center shows contemporary art. (912) 790-8800; telfair.org
And at Olde Pink House, the crab-stuffed grouper almost rivals the historic charm. (912) 232-4286.
More information: (877) 728-2662; visitsavannah.com
(A version of this story appeared in Midwest Living® January/February 2011. Prices, dates and other details are subject to change, so please check specifics before making travel plans.)