A party spot at night, River Street mellows by day. Try beignets (sweet pillows of fried dough) at Huey's on the River (hueysontheriver.net). Candy stores bookend the street; River Street Sweets sells the better pralines (riverstreetsweets.com).
Old Town Trolley Tours have a stop here (trolleytours.com). Hop on and head to Broughton Street, where Paris Market artfully displays antiques and gifts (theparismarket.com). The Savannah Bee Company has a honey bar (savannahbee.com).
At Papillote, sandwiches double as works of art (papillote-savannah.com).
First African Baptist Church hides near Broughton (firstafricanbc.com).
Chef Joe Randall's Cooking School feels like dinner with friends (chefjoerandall.com).
Visitors don't need cars in Savannah, but it's worth renting one to see Fort Pulaski, a fascinating Civil War site with top-notch tours (nps.gov/fopu).
Nearby, Tybee Island beaches offer good birding (and a chance for Midwesterners to breathe that fresh sea air!) (visittybee.com).
Back in town, share family-style tables with strangers at Mrs. Wilke's Dining Room (mrswilkes.com). Or enjoy a multicourse afternoon tea at trendy Gryphon Tea Room—(912) 525-5880.
Nearby, the guides at the Juliette Gordon Low Birthplace tell fun stories about Low's childhood and her experience founding the Girl Scouts (juliettegordonlowbirthplace.org).
The gleaming Jepson Center shows contemporary art (telfair.org).
And at Olde Pink House, the crab-stuffed grouper almost rivals the historic charm—(912) 232-4286.
More information: (877) 728-2662; visitsavannah.com
(A version of this story appeared in Midwest Living® January/February 2011. Prices, dates and other details are subject to change, so please check specifics before making travel plans.)