Missouri River Odyssey
Do the wave
Two-lane highways follow the Missouri River haphazardly through North and South Dakota like kids running along, having trouble getting close or keeping up. Other vehicles are scarce, and you watch one coming for a while against the big sky and broad horizon. When you finally meet, it's sort of an occasion. You look in each other's direction, lift an index finger and nod. It feels more than polite, like a genuine connection between fellow adventurers.
When you're ready to get off the highway, there's adventure of another sort waiting at the Western-themed Outlaws Bar & Grill in Watford City, North Dakota (701/842-6859). Elk and bison steaks don't provoke comment; it's the rattlesnake cakes that get the attention.