The 1904 Steak House isn’t your usual casino restaurant. For starters, it’s sited in a re-created Victorian house (designed to resemble the home in the movie Meet Me In St Louis), complete with cupolas and a patio garden. Inside, the dining room continues the era’s aesthetics with wood-paneled walls, plush tufted velvet booths, ferns, corner statuettes and crystal chandeliers. We were seated in a small booth, a nice spot for a romantic evening, but a little too intimate for friends just out for dinner.
Our Clams Casino starter was overcooked, making the clams chewy and drawing butter out from the crumb topping. The surf and turf sushi roll was a much better choice, with lobster, asparagus, avocado and strip steak wrapped in sticky rice; the sweetness of the lobster contrasted beautifully with the spicy mayo garnish. This being a steak house first and foremost, 1904 serves a wide variety of red meat, touting dry-aged prime steaks and signature top-choice cuts, including a modest 8-ounce filet ($30) to a massive 26-ounce porterhouse ($60). The filet we devoured wasn’t dry-aged, but it was tender and delicious, and the black pepper horseradish aioli add-on ($3) intensified the flavor in the beef. Other entrees include lamb, pork, chicken and seafood. The miso-roasted Chilean sea bass ($32) arrived bronzed with a crisp crust and a subtle earthy saltiness.
Side dishes and desserts ($6 to $10) are hit-or-miss. The crispy Brussels sprouts and mascarpone cheesecake with blueberry sorbet were excellent, but the macaroni and cheese and the bananas Foster left us wanting. Sans drinks (the restaurant offers more than 300 wines and a full bar), our tab came to nearly $50 per person. While the entrees were solid, the inconsistent starters and sides were a turnoff. At these prices, you could get a more well-rounded meal elsewhere.