North of Traverse City, vineyards stripe the hills of the Leelanau and Old Mission peninsulas, basking in the lake-effect climate. The larger and busier of the two peninsulas crooks between Lake Michigan and Grand Traverse Bay and claims more than a dozen wineries and a scattering of pretty towns that cater to visitors. Black Star Farms, with a tasting room serving award-winning vintages, also has a posh B&B. The Pinot Gris and the fruit dessert wines are standouts.