Like jewels tossed into the sapphire waters of Lake Superior, the 22 Apostle Islands lie just offshore the Bayfield Peninsula. On summer days, Bayfield's harbor is full of kayaks and tour boats going to and from the beaches, lighthouses, sea caves and campsites in the legendary archipelago. More relaxed explorers ride ferries to the only inhabitated island, Madeline, which offers shops, a renowned beach, a museum and places to eat. The shops, inns and restaurants of Bayfield proper look down from hills along the lake. The surrounding peninsula is marked by pay-on-your-honor berry and apple stands and an absence of chain stores. Hot summer nights offer performing arts under the old-fashioned Big Top Chautauqua tent.