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Chicago's World of Flavors
Neighborhood Restaurants
Diversity -- in food, in people, in neighborhoods -- ranks as one of Chicago's greatest assets. One ethnic group's home-cooked tradition is another's exotic adventure, within a city whose collective palate has become increasingly international. For some, the Southern-fried chicken at a soul-food restaurant satisfies the most primal hunger. For others, the melt-in-your-mouth meatballs at a legendary Swedish diner are the heart's delight. I love it all!
During my decades of living in the city, my culinary rituals ranged from a weekly brunch of dim sum dumplings in Chinatown to creamy guacamole at a lively Mexican taqueria. I recently went back to find out whether my favorites had changed. The verdict: These neighborhood restaurants still serve up some of the most memorable food anywhere, at prices you'll find easy to digest.
Amy & Lou's
"Bitterness of Poor Quality Remains Long After Sweetness of Price Has Been Forgotten." Such is the philosophy of this venerable South Side institution, as written on a plaque that hangs between the cash register and the kitchen. The 58-year-old soul-food restaurant just off South Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. Drive delivers terrific value without cutting corners. Seven bucks buys some of the juiciest -- never greasy -- fried chicken in town.
"This is true scratch cooking," says owner Dolores Reynolds, a friendly woman who perpetuates the traditions of the eatery's namesake founders, the late William "Army" Armstrong and his wife Louvilla. "We're not going for the convenience factor. When I bought the restaurant 11 years ago, I didn't want to remake Army & Lou's, but to maintain what had made it so special for more than 40 years."
The spot remains a nerve center of the city's African-American community, a favorite among power brokers and neighborhood folks alike. A few bites of the catfish steak and homemade biscuits should make anyone feel at home.
The hospitable spirit extends to the breakfast service. If you order scrambled eggs, your waitress likely will ask, "Soft, medium or well?" To give your morning a soulful Southern start, try the waffle with jumbo fried chicken wings. You may not need to eat again all day. 422 East 75th Street (773/483-3100).
